Admiring plum blossoms in the twelfth lunar month has always been an elegant tradition through the ages. Su Dongpo's line "Jade and snow form its bones, ice its soul" perfectly captures the pure and noble charm of plum blossoms in cold weather, attracting literati and refined scholars to trek through snow and frost, just to pursue the elegant and faint fragrance unique to winter. In the lineage of Wuyi Rock Tea, there happens to be a famous cultivar that implicitly resonates with the charm of plum blossoms—it is Old Bush Xiangtianmei. Its trees stand tall like wild plums reaching for the sky, with leaves growing upward toward the firmament, and releasing plum-like fragrance once infused with boiling water, making it a cherished treasure shared secretly among seasoned tea connoisseurs. In 2025, Tongxin She Teahouse selects ancient native famous cultivars from Wuyi Mountain, presenting this elegant plum fragrance hidden deep in the core cliff tea-producing area on the tea table.
The name "Xiangtianmei" carries profound literary charm. It is not a widely known variety among Wuyi Rock Teas; only senior tea lovers will smile knowingly when hearing its name, understanding the arrogant posture of "facing the sky" and cherishing the elegant charm of "plum fragrance". Those who love plum blossoms admire both their perseverance in standing tall in the cold winter and the purity of their faint, distant fragrance. What tea lovers seek, however, is precisely the realm of Wuyi Rock Tea—"fragrance is easy to obtain, but cliff character is hard to find". That cliff character is not only the distinct mineral texture in the tea soup but also a spiritual resonance of tranquility and transcendence, which is perfectly in line with the spirit of plum blossoms.
This Old Bush Xiangtianmei originates from Beidou Peak, the core production area of Zhengyan in Wuyi Mountain. Located between Niulan Keng Gorge and Sangu Stone, adjacent to Shuilian Cave on the left and Tianxin Pagoda on the right, this area lies deep in the "Three Gorges and Two Valleys"—the most prestigious tea-producing region in Wuyi Mountain. Surrounded by Danxia landforms and shrouded in clouds and mist all year round, the tea trees coexist with rocks and moss, absorbing mineral nutrients from the depths of the rock formations, thus endowing the tea soup with a rich mountainous foundation. Crafted with ingenuity by Chen Zhenying, Deputy Director of Wuyi Mountain Tea Research Institute, the precise control of medium-high roasting (between medium and medium-full roasting) not only locks in the natural charm of the old bush but also stimulates the unique cliff character and floral fragrance of rock tea, allowing the distinctive characteristics of Xiangtianmei to be fully displayed.
At first sight, the dry tea leaves are thick, even, and neat, with a dark brown and glossy color, pure and free of impurities. When approached, a wisp of delicate and faint fragrance lingers, as if there is hidden plum fragrance, evoking reverie. Pouring boiling water into the gaiwan, the tea soup turns orange-yellow with a reddish tint, clear and bright like flowing amber. When the leaves unfurl, they appear yellowish-brown like silk, plump, soft, and bright, full of vitality, fully showing the profound heritage of the old bush tea trees. The aroma is particularly layered and charming: elegant plum fragrance takes the lead, intertwined with the moist scent of moss and the calm charm of wood, rich, lingering, and long-lasting, as if transporting people to the mist-shrouded deep mountains of Wuyi.
During tasting, one can further appreciate its charm and tenderness. In the 1st to 2nd infusions, the tea soup is orange-yellow and bright, with the old bush flavor and plum fragrance already blended. The lid fragrance is fresh and elegant, and the taste is sweet, mellow, and refreshing. At the first sip, one feels instant fluid production in the mouth, with the plum fragrance like blooming plum blossoms in cold weather, refreshing and touching. The 3rd to 5th infusions are the peak of flavor: the tea soup shows a thick and rich texture with distinct body and weight, and the mineral aroma of the mountainous area perfectly combines with the aging charm of the old bush. The woody fragrance becomes more calm, while the plum fragrance lingers between the teeth. The taste is mellow, soft, sweet, and full, with quick sweetness and fluid production. The characteristics of "clear fragrance, sweetness, richness, and vitality"—the cliff rhyme—is fully displayed, and each sip is a gentle nourishment for the taste buds. After the 6th infusion, the tea soup turns sweet, fresh, and moist, still mellow and lively, with the lasting foundation of Zhengyan tea. The taste is elegant yet with endless aftertaste, faint and charming, making people linger on and recall endlessly.
A cup of Old Bush Xiangtianmei is the precipitation of time, the gift of the mountainous area, and the craftsmanship of ingenuity. With plum as its soul and cliff as its bone, it integrates elegant plum fragrance with thick tea soup, allowing plum lovers to obtain its charm and tea lovers to obtain its character. In 2025, why not make an appointment at Tongxin She Teahouse? Amidst the curling tea smoke, savor this ancient old bush famous cultivar that hides the landscapes of Wuyi and the pure soul of plum blossoms, and encounter a tranquil and transcendent elegant time in the mellow tea soup.